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A Catalan Christmas: the 3 best Christmas markets in Barcelona

A Catalan Christmas: the 3 best Christmas markets in Barcelona

The other day I came home to find a neighbor’s guest dragging a suitcase up to the fourth floor.

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I helped her carry the suitcase, then told her to knock on my door if she needed anything else. An hour later, I answered a hesitant knock at the door. It turned out that my new (temporary) neighbor didn’t know how to turn on the heating.

A few days before, in mid-December, Barcelona had gone from being a temperate paradise to becoming a meat one. This is the problem in Barcelona: most people are concerned about the lack of air conditioning in summer.

They forget to fear winter.

To be honest, winters in Barcelona are mild. Temperatures hover in the 50s before occasionally dropping into the 40s or, on a bad day, into the 30s. The catch? The buildings are made of stone and the vast majority have no heating.

Unlike most residents, my neighbors have central heating, but their guests didn’t know how to turn it on. I took my space heater out of the cupboard (yes, I have two radiators and a cupboard – I live in luxury) to lend it to him.

I could only nod in understanding when she said, “I didn’t know it was that cold.” I didn’t know it when I arrived here either.

Still, as much as I hate how cold my apartment is in December and January, I’m grateful that my Christmas season comes with a little winter chill. It’s the season, after all, and it’s magical in Barcelona.

From the huge light displays that adorn the avenues to the classic winter markets, it’s my favorite time in the city, even if the crowds persist.

If you’re spending the Christmas period in town, here’s what you need to know and where to go.

Visiting Barcelona: an introduction

Let me give you a quick crash course on Barcelona. It is the capital of Catalonia, a region where the struggle for independence from Spain is still very strong.

Depending on where you go, you may hear more Catalan spoken than Spanish, or vice versa.

As a city that struggles with overtourism, you might feel like you’re being given a cold shoulder. That may be the case, but Catalans are also known for being a bit cold, just like New Yorkers or Muscovites.

This doesn’t mean they aren’t kind or helpful. This simply means that they are generally not willing to chat and smile to strangers.

Christmas in Catalonia

Meet Caga Tio (Getty)

There are two great Catalan Christmas traditions that you will notice in Barcelona, ​​Girona and similar destinations in the region. The first is the log on which the face is painted. The second is a figurine of a man with his pants down taking a poop.

The first is Caga Tió Or Tió de Nadal. It’s a Yule log with a face painted on it. The log wears the traditional Catalan red sock hat (a barretine) and has poles for legs.

During Christmas time, parents drape a blanket over the bottom of the log. From December 8, the children begin to “feed” the log.

When Christmas comes, the children beat the log until it poops on their presents. Remove the cover and ThereCaga Tió produced gifts for the whole family.

Do you think that’s weird? Fasten your seat belt.

The second tradition is Caganer or figurine of the man who poops. You will notice it introduced into nurseries throughout Catalonia, a traditionally Catholic region, and sold on its own.

Some say that the Caganer tradition, born in the 18thth century, is a form of insurance of fertility and luck. I have heard others say that the Caganer is a way of inserting humor into one of the most solemn and austere religious holidays of the year.

Either way, buying a Caganer is my ultimate Barcelona souvenir suggestion. You’ll also see them sold as famous people, from US presidents to Star Wars characters to famous actresses.

The best Christmas markets and events in Barcelona

Now that you know what you’re getting into with a Catalan Christmas, here’s how to enjoy the season with the best markets and events. I went to all these places and had a great time; I’m sure you will too.

Plus, no need to buy tickets. Barcelona is going all out on free events.

Saint Lucia Fair (Santa Llucia Fira)

St Lucia Market Scenes from 2023 (Getty)

Ah, the Christmas market that I couldn’t miss if I tried. This beautiful and elegant market is located opposite Barcelona Cathedral, a Gothic landmark that’s probably already on your itinerary.

You can shop for all types of Christmas food, from real trees to Caganers to ornaments. I would recommend this to be your first and last stop to celebrate Christmas in Barcelona. This fair is THE Christmas market… and it’s been around since 1786!

(Pro tip: Don’t miss “The Kiss” mural: it’s a touristy spot but I’ll go out of my way to pass by. It’s one of my favorite pieces of street art in the world and it beautifully sums up the warmth, creativity and joy of the people of Barcelona.)

Port Vell Fair (Nadal’s Fira in Port Vell)

Scenes from the 2023 Port Vell Christmas Fair (Getty)

Unlike the market above, I generally avoid this Christmas fair at all costs due to my aversion to large crowds. That being said, I’m the odd one out in my friend group for this; everyone passes through this area several times in November and December.

Located in Port Vell, this fair offers views of the yacht-filled harbor and includes a huge Christmas market, Ferris wheel, food and drink vendors and even an ice rink. Some evenings, shows are also offered.

(Pro tip: Even if you’re not visiting Barcelona in winter, take a look at the Port Vell district. This place hosts dozens of festivities throughout the year. And even if there are no festival, it’s still a great place to people watch, watch the sunset and enjoy the vibe of the city.)

Christmas fair at the Sagrada Familia (Nadal’s Fira of the Sagrada Familia)

Close-up of a shop at the 2023 Sagrada Familia Christmas market (Getty)

Just like Barcelona Cathedral, I’m sure a trip to the Sagrada Familia is on your radar. From late November to late December, you can find a Christmas market outside the church grounds.

It is a popular event that attracts people from all over the city with its traditional cuisine. Like at the Saint Lucia Fair, you can find shops selling all types of favorite products: from decorations and crafts to Caga Tió logs and desserts like torron.

I recommend booking a tour of the church for sunset (when the stained glass windows are full of light) and then heading outside to soak up the atmosphere.