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Celebrate Hanukkah with latkes, Roman-style fried artichokes, and jelly donuts

Celebrate Hanukkah with latkes, Roman-style fried artichokes, and jelly donuts

It is Christmas Day and the first day of Hanukkah, the Jewish festival of light. People all over the world celebrate Hanukkah by lighting candles on the menorah and feasting on fried foods.

Léa Koenigauthor of several cookbooks, including “The Jewish Cookbook” and “Portico: Cooking and Feasting in Rome’s Jewish Kitchen,” shares recipes for potato latkes and other delicious Hanukkah classics with Here and nowIt’s Scott Tong.

The cover of Leah Koenig’s new cookbook, “Portico.” (Courtesy of Léa Koenig)

Hanukkah Recipes

By Léa Koenig

Potato latkes

Recipe reproduced, with permission, from “The Jewish Cookbook” by Leah Koenig (Phaidon, 2019)

For 6 to 8 people

  • 4 lb (1.8 kg) Russet potatoes, washed, unpeeled and patted dry
  • 1 medium onion, peeled
  • 2/3 cup (95 g) all-purpose flour or potato starch
  • 4 to 5 lightly beaten eggs
  • 1/2 cup (25 g) finely chopped fresh parsley, optional
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • Vegetable oil (such as sunflower), for frying Sour cream and applesauce, for serving

  1. Line two large baking sheets with several layers of paper towels, set aside.
  2. Grate the potatoes and onion on the large holes of a grater. (Or cut them into quarters and grate them using the shredding blade of a food processor.) Working in batches, wrap the grated potato and onion in a kitchen towel or several layers of paper absorbent and squeeze out as much liquid as possible.
  3. Add the potatoes and onion to a large bowl with the flour, 4 eggs, parsley, if using, salt and pepper. Mix until the ingredients are completely incorporated. If the mixture seems dry, stir in the remaining egg.
  4. In a large skillet, heat 1/4 inch (6 mm) oil over medium-high heat until shimmering but not smoking.
  5. Working in batches of 4 or 5, drop dough by 1/4 cup (55 g) drops into pan and gently press with a spatula to flatten. Cook, turning once, until browned on both sides and cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes. Continue to fry until all the potato mixture is used up, adding additional oil to the pan if necessary, and adjust the heat up or down if the latkes are browning too quickly or not fast enough.
  6. Transfer the cooked latkes to paper towels to drain. Serve immediately topped with sour cream, applesauce, or both.

Sufganiyot (Hanukkah Jelly Donuts)
Recipe reproduced, with permission, from “The Jewish Cookbook” by Leah Koenig (Phaidon, 2019)

Makes about 15 donuts

  • 1 packet of active dry yeast (21⁄4 teaspoons)
  • 1⁄4 cup (50 g) plus 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 1⁄2 cup (120 ml) lukewarm water (110°F/43°C)
  • 2½ cups (350 g) all-purpose flour (plain), plus extra for kneading and rolling
  • 1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 1/3 cup (75 ml) milk or plant-based milk
  • 1⁄2 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter or vegan butter, cut into pieces, at room temperature
  • Vegetable oil, for greasing the bowl and frying
  • Strawberry, raspberry or apricot jam (no jelly), for garnish
  • Icing sugar, for sprinkling

1. In a medium bowl, combine yeast, 1 teaspoon sugar and warm water. Let sit until mixture bubbles and foams, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine flour and salt.
2. Add the remaining 1⁄4 cup (50 g) sugar, egg yolks, milk and vanilla to the yeast mixture and whisk to combine. Pour the wet mixture into the flour mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until the dough comes together and begins to form a ball.
3. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface. Spread the butter pieces over the dough and knead, sprinkling with additional flour if necessary, until the butter is completely incorporated and the dough is smooth, shiny and elastic, about 8 minutes. (Kneading can also be done in a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, 5 to 7 minutes.)
4. Grease a large bowl with 1 teaspoon vegetable oil. Form the dough into a ball, place it in the bowl and turn to coat. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, 1½ to 2 hours.
5. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Place a cooling rack inside a large baking sheet. Gently deflate the dough with the heel of your hand and transfer it to a lightly floured work surface. Roll out the dough with a rolling pin until it is ¼ inch (6 mm) thick. Using a 3-inch (7.5 cm) round biscuit or cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds of dough as possible and place them on the lined baking sheet. Gather the scraps, reroll and cut out more rounds.
6. Cover the dough rounds lightly with a damp towel and let rise in a warm place until puffy, about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, pour 2 inches (5 cm) of oil into a Dutch oven or large heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat over medium heat and bring to 365°F (185°C) on a deep-fry thermometer.
7. Working in batches of 4, carefully add the dough rounds to the hot oil and fry, turning once, until golden brown on both sides, about 2 minutes. Transfer to the rack in the baking sheet. Let cool slightly.
8. Use a small knife to pierce the side of each donut to form a pocket, then use a spoon or piping bag to fill with jam. Return the filled donuts to the rack and sprinkle the tops with icing sugar. Serve immediately.

Apple fritters (mele frite)
Recipe reprinted, with permission, from “Portico: Cooking and Feasting in Rome’s Jewish Kitchen” by Leah Koenig (WW Norton, 2023)

For 6 to 8 people

For the optional vanilla sugar:

  • 2 whole vanilla pods
  • 1½ cups (300 g) granulated sugar

For the donuts:

  • 4 large cooking apples, peeled
  • 1½ cups (210 g) all-purpose flour
  • 3 tablespoons of granulated sugar
  • ½ teaspoon kosher salt
  • ½ teaspoon baking soda
  • 1½ cups (355 ml) milk or plant-based milk
  • Vegetable oil, for frying

  1. Prepare the vanilla sugar, if you are making it: split the vanilla pods and scrape out the seeds; set the pods aside. Place the sugar and vanilla seeds in a food processor and pulse until well combined. Transfer the sugar to a glass jar, add the reserved pods, cover tightly and set aside. (Sugar can be used immediately, but the flavor will develop over time. It can be stored, tightly covered, for up to 1 year.)
  2. Prepare the fritters: Using an apple corer (or melon baller or sturdy metal teaspoon), carefully remove the apple cores and discard. Cut the apples into ½-inch-thick rounds and set aside.
  3. Mix flour, sugar, salt and baking soda in a large bowl. Add milk and whisk until smooth.
  4. Heat ½ inch of oil in a large skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Line a large plate with absorbent paper and place nearby. When the oil is hot, working in batches of 4 to 5, dip the apple slices into the batter, let the excess drip off, and carefully slide them into the oil. Fry, turning once, until golden brown on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain.
  5. Generously sprinkle the donuts with vanilla sugar (or more caster sugar) while still hot and serve immediately.

Simpler Fried Artichokes with Herb Salt
Recipe reprinted, with permission, from “Portico: Cooking and Feasting in Rome’s Jewish Kitchen” by Leah Koenig (WW Norton, 2023)

For 4 to 6 people

For the optional herb salt:

  • ½ teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled
  • ½ teaspoon dried oregano
  • ½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt

For the artichokes:

  • Two 14-ounce cans artichoke hearts, drained and cut in half lengthwise
  • Vegetable oil, for frying
  • Kosher salt or herb salt, for garnish

  1. Prepare the herb salt, if using: Add the rosemary, oregano, lemon zest and salt to a small bowl and rub the ingredients with your fingertips to combine. Cancel.
  2. Prepare the artichokes: Line a large baking sheet with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel and place the drained quartered artichoke hearts in a single layer on top. Garnish with a second layer of absorbent paper or a tea towel and gently dry the artichokes. Let them dry like this for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours.
  3. Heat 1 inch of oil in a medium saucepan or saucepan over medium heat until it reaches 350°F (180°C). Line a large baking sheet with paper towels and set aside.
  4. Working in batches of 4 or 5, carefully slide the artichoke hearts into the oil. Fry until deeply browned and crisp, 2 to 4 minutes.
  5. Transfer the fried artichokes to a paper towel-lined plate and drain for a few minutes. Then transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle with a little salt or herb salt, if using. Serve immediately. (Leftover herb salt can be saved and sprinkled over popcorn, baked fish, or roasted vegetables.)

This segment aired on December 25, 2024. Audio will be available soon.