The Third Generation Studio Underd0g 01 Series

Would you like to use a Seagull ST-1901 movement in your new watch? Of course, this is no problem, but you will need to order a minimum of 10,000 units. This is something you want to hear as a small brand when asking the Chinese movement manufacturer to possibly supply you with calibers. But instead of looking for possible alternative moves, Studio Underd0g negotiated with Seagull, and the result is most surprising. The young and playful British brand has signed an exclusive contract with Seagull, allowing it to offer a tailor-made version of this manually wound column wheel chronograph movement. This exclusive ST-1901B features an all-black main plate that frames the bridges, wheels and balance wheel in the most striking way. Best of all, the third generation Studio Underd0g 01 series movement now also features a silver swan neck regulator for more precise regulation.

When Studio Underd0g started working with Seagull in 2021, ordering 300 movements from the company was no problem. But the market has changed. Many emerging micro brands have begun to use the Chinese caliber ST-1901. As you probably know, it can be affordable, but it’s not simple. The ST-1901 began as a Swiss Venus 175 caliber before the tooling and technical drawings were sold to the Chinese Air Force in the early 1960s. Creating a complex build on a limited budget does not make marvels in terms of reliability. As a result, many ST-1901 movements suffered from all kinds of problems. Seagull is now trying to improve its move game by increasing the quality. This means investing in different aspects of production, which the company can finance, for example by significantly increasing the minimum order quantity. This is exactly what Seagull has decided to do with the minimum order quantity now set at 10,000 units per order.

When Studio Underd0g began working with Seagull in 2021, the brand was able to place an initial order of 300 pieces without issue, although this represents a considerable financial outlay for a newly established brand. Over the years, as demand for its watches grew, so did the volume of corresponding movement orders. However, as you can imagine, the increase in the minimum order quantity to 10,000 pieces was a real shock and certainly a challenge for a brand still in its infancy, like Studio Underd0g. Nevertheless, Richard Benc considered it an important step, saying that “it proves that we are making difficult decisions now to ensure that we are still here in the decades to come (this is the plan of anyway…). Essentially, we are investing in ourselves for the long term! »

The third generation Studio Underd0g 01 series comes with a custom-made Seagull movement

Rather than looking for another movement supplier, Studio Underd0g made a deal with Seagull. The result is a bespoke version of the ST-1901 that follows the “less is more” approach. The changes to the movement aren’t just cosmetic. The most important change is the updated technical quality, such as the silver gooseneck regulator. In a way, it also does more justice to the original Venus move than a Seagull move ever has before. Remember that the ST-1901 is a five-hand column wheel chronograph and for it to function properly for a long time, it requires the right materials processed in the right way and carefully assembled and packaged. Too often there were flaws in the production process, so the reputation of the ST-1901 was not the best. The ST-1901B should be a game changer.

Regulated, reviewed and assembled in Great Britain

All ST-1901B movements will be regulated in Britain to -10/+15 seconds per day. This is a major improvement over the previous daily accuracy specs of -15/+35 seconds. In addition to regulations, Horologium will inspect each watch before shipment. The process includes demagnetization if necessary and accuracy/rate review in three positions. This will result in a report card for each watch that documents the performance and details of the Horologium team member who assembled your watch. The decision to assemble the watches in the UK allows Studio Underd0g to have greater control and ownership of the process. Studio Underd0g watches may seem frivolous, but the way they are constructed is the opposite.

The same goes for the number of watches that Studio Underd0g assembles in Britain. The brand now has a capacity to assemble more than 1,000 watches per month and the Horologium team now numbers 18 people, including nine people dedicated to assembling Studio Underd0g watches. For your consideration, when the brand started working with Horologium, it was a two-person company. In other words, Studio Underd0g is now a major player in the British watch scene/industry.

Different on the inside, different on the outside

In addition to the movement upgrade, the third generation of the 01 series features incremental but significant improvements. The core case has been slimmed down by 0.7mm, making the 38.5mm by 44.5mm Series 01 even more portable at 12.9mm thick, including crystal. The crown is also new. It has grown in size and now offers improved grip, making winding the new movement a(more) enjoyable experience. The dial also features a cosmetic change. It reads ‘Assembled in Britain’, marking something few British brands can boast. The enlarged sapphire crystal at the back offers a better view of the bespoke movement with its contrasting black plate and refined swan-neck regulator.

Series 01 (Gen 3) will be available for pre-order via the Studio Underd0g website on November 19 for nine hours. Each third generation model has a price of £550 / €590 / US$650which is £55/€50/US$50 more than its second-generation 01 series counterpart.

What do you think of the improvements? Is it worth the slight price increase? Let us know in the comments.

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